Nikko, Japan

May 1, 2016

Nikko Toshogu Shrine

ToshoguAnnotatedMap
This is the map of the World Heritage Site, Nikko Toshogu Shrine.

We were given around 100 minutes to explore the historical grounds with our tour guide, Amy. This shrine is apparently Japan’s most lavishly decorated shrine, which makes it very unique from all other shrines since shrines are supposed to embody simplicity. Decorations such as numerous wood carvings can be found here.

Amy reminded us for the time that we should be back in the bus parked some 200 meters from the shrine and that was 3 PM if I remember correctly. But 50-60% of the time, we were following her as she spoke through the radio that she distributed earlier in the bus. She was enthusiastically telling us the story about each corner of the shrine and when she felt like she was losing her sheep, she would call out through the radio, too.

Gate
We saw this gate from where the bus was parked to wait for us but it was not that related to the shrine. We just took photos and went the other way.

There was a long walkway to get to the main entrance and that itself was already a good view for us, with bright skies, towering trees, cool weather, and fresh breeze. It was indeed refreshing!

At the end of the long walkway, we had to turn left to walk on the Staircase of the Thousand (as in the map above), which led to the main entrance of the shrine.

Side Pillars
The shrine grounds are surrounded by these old pillars. We have not gotten in yet.
Pillars Close
A closer look at the walls of the shrine.
Cherry
I am in sync with the tree!
Ishidorii Gate
This is the Ishidorii or Granite Gate (as in the map above) dedicated in 1618. Behind the gate is the Staircase of the Thousand. I was facing back when I took this photo.
Gojunoto
This is Gojunoto, the Five Story Pagoda (as in the map above), dedicated in 1648.

Like most temples in Japan, a Water Purification Building exists for visitors. This building is used to purify body and mind by washing one’s hands and rinsing out one’s mouth before going for worship. In this article, it details on how one should visit a shrine.

Omizuya
This is the Water Purification Building called Omizuya.
Kyozo
Kyozo, the library inside the compound.
Shinkyusha
Called Shinkyusha or Shinkyu-Sacred Stable (as in the map above), this house has the famous “See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil” carvings of 3 monkeys.
One Monkey
One of those monkey carvings around Shinkyusha depicting the lives of ordinary people.
3 Wise Monkeys
The famous “See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil” carving of three wise monkeys.
Souvenirs 1
Souvenirs sold by the side of Shinkyusha, the building with monkey carvings.
Fortunes
These are O-mikujis, they are random fortunes written on strips of paper in Japan’s shrines. Most of the time, people tie the strip around the wire if the fortune is bad. But they can still choose to tie it even if fortune is good or just keep it.
Souvenirs 2
More souvenirs are displayed for visitors.
Pillars Differences
Pillars of different structures line up within the temple grounds.
3 Storehouses
Sanjinko or the Three Sacred Storehouses are where the harnesses and costumes used in the procession of 1,000 Samurais are kept. From R-L: Kamijinko – Upper Storehouse, Nakajinko – Middle Storehouse, and Shimojinko – Lower Storehouse (as in the map above).
Storehouse side
The side of the Kamijinko or the Upper Storehouse.
Storehouse
Kamijinko or Upper storehouse showing off its colorful exterior.
Grounds
The grounds from where we came from. The Sanjinko or the Three Sacred Storehouses are on the left. I was standing in front of the Yomei-mon Gate.



Bell Tower
This is the Bell Tower.
Drum Tower
There is also the Drum Tower, which is just across the Bell Tower.
Drum Close
A closer look at the Drum Tower.
Yakushido
Yakushi-do, one of those temples having carvings of intricate details.
Yakushido Bottom
Yakushi-do’s bottom part and the dragons on both sides of the top corners.
Yakushido Side
Yakushido’s side angle. It looks very strong on the foundation.
Yomeimon
This is the Yomei-mon or Higurashi-mon gate (Sunlight or Twilight gate) inside the Toshogu Shrine.
Main Shrine
This is the long stretch of the walls of the Main Shrine. Kaguraden (as in the map above) is on the right side.

When it was time to get to the Main Hall, called Honden Hall (number 17 in the map above), we had to remove our shoes and cameras were not allowed since it was a place for worship. We went around the hall and at the end of it was a shop for lucky charms. Amy again reminded us to be aboard the bus by 3 PM since her story-telling period finished inside the Main Hall. We had around 45 minutes more left to explore the rest of the area.

After the main hall, we saw a growing queue on the left side of the exit. We were curious and we ended up queuing as well. While in the line, there was a wall full of stacked large Sake jars on my left. I took a photo but came out blurry. Anyway, after a few minutes, we were trying to find out what was the line for because we could not exactly see what was in front of us, just a full stretch of wooden wall from left to right and a small doorway in the center where people were flocking. When we were close to the beginning of the line, I just saw the walkway past the doorway that led to somewhere. Huh? But why were the people not going straight through the doorway? Why were they stopping in front of this, maybe special, doorway? Then I checked what the visitors were fussing about by looking at them and then I followed their gaze and… oh, I saw the Sleeping Cat sculpture installed high above the doorway. Ah, so it was you.

The Sleeping Cat is a National Treasure of Japan and serves as an inspiration to artists around the world.

Sleeping Cat
The Sleeping Cat or Nemuri-neko symbolizes Nikko.

And then, below was that walkway leading to somewhere. That somewhere is Ieyasu’s Mausoleum, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate that ruled Japan for over 250 years until 1868. The walk was a bit long, perhaps around 10 minutes, and uphill via stairs.

Stairs
This is the path that goes to the Mausoleum of Ieyasu.

There was really a lot of space around the Mausoleum. We went around the concrete fence and on the other end, we saw people offering some prayers.

Tomb
This is the tomb of Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate that ruled Japan for over 250 years until 1868.
Inner Tomb
A wide area for Ieyasu’s tomb with a statue of a bird in front of it.
Symbol
What do you think these are?
Full Compound
This is the full compound upon exit from the shrine. I was standing by the Nio-mon (as in the map above) or Omotemon (Front Gate) as the first gate of the shrine.

I checked the time and it was already 14:57. Three more minutes before deadline and we still found ourselves just after the Staircase of the Thousand (see below). We ran without thinking and we followed the straight path in front of us. When we almost got to the middle of nowhere, we stopped and realized that the area was not familiar anymore. We quickly retraced our steps and found the fork where we had turned earlier. Whew, then we ran again! Pant! Pant! Pant!

Entrance
This the entrance of the shrine facing backwards. We did not explore the area out there.

Of course, we were a bit late again in the bus, about… hmm… 5 minutes? Amazing Race eh?

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